His house was raided by BATF. After his arrest, Maadi-Griffin lost all ability to sell firearms, but continued to operate for a while, selling plan books and sabots. Maadigriffin Cal Rifle Plans. Last Updated on Thu, 11 Oct | Maadi Griffin 50 Cal. Maadi Cal Kit. Written, Published and Totally Owned by JNS Supply. Last Updated on Mon, 17 Jun | Maadi Griffin 50 Cal. Material carbon steel 3 /4″ square tubing, 5 7/8″ long Three slots on each side” wide, 1 ” long.
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This is patterned after ihe NATO style weaver type base Store bought weaver type base maybe used, and drilled and screwed on base tube. The center baffle should be. The tip of the barrel should be turned to 1.
Construct the collar so that it can be inserted into the back plate of the brake. Align and tack weld It is advisable to make a one inch dia. Put it into the lathe, screw on the brake, drill the. First, drill a ” hole through the entire casting Then drill a. Or to the muzzle end of the barrel. Using the headspace gages, proceed by placing the receiver into the padded vice, securely, place the GO GAGE into the bolt face, and place plajs bolt and gage into the griffin and lock the handle down Practice, by screwing the lock ring on the barrel all the way on, then screw the barrel into the receiver until it stops, then run the lock ring snug to the receiver.
Be sure the locking ring is all the way forward. Screw the barrel into the receiver until it “stops” do not use force just hand snug, then screw the lock ring to the receiver, while checking the bolt handle, when the lock ring is snug, quickly remove the GO-GAGE and replace it with the NO-GO GAGE and the handle should not go down.
Head spacing this rifle must be done by a competent gunsmith. If you have expertise in this, and have the proper head spacing madi, then proceed. The information is given herein to accomplish head spacing.
The bolt handle should not be able to go down. Some marks may be left by the pipewrench, they will be hidden by the shroud.
Full text of “Maadi Griffin 50 Cal. Rifle Plans”
Grind off the marks that stand up. Two methods of head spacing. With headspace gages, and without headspace gages. First, put the receiver in a bench vice, wrapped in denim cloth to keep off vice marks situate the receiver so that the bolt handle can be moved freely Remove the bolt, remove the firing pin from the bolt. Put the bolt cap back on the bolt, and take a new manufactured not reloaded live 50 cal round and insert it into the boltface shell holder, and insert the bolt into the receiver and push the bolt handle down.
Next will be a practice run. Screw the locking ring up on the barret, screw the barrel into the receiver until it is just snug tight against the 50 cal. Now, lift the bolt handle and remove the 50 cal unlired round. Put the round back in and lock down the handle, if it is too tight, loosen the lock ring and hack off the barrel just a crack- To properly head space the receiver, try several different new manufactured rounds.
Not the cheap imported yellow tipped ones, do not use those. The bolt handle should go down with just the slightest resistance with the round inserted. Unscrew the barrel, remove the bolt, keep the round in the boltface. Back off the locking ring maqdi the way forward on the barrel.
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With the receiver in the vice, put locktite on the threads of the barrel only, not too much. Then put the bolt, with the round in the receiver and lock the handle down. Screw in the barrel until that “snug” feel, not tight, but snug, as the barrel contacts the round. Check the bolt handle, up and down for that slight “feel” of resistance. Then screw the barrel locking ring to contact the receivechecking the bolt for that “fee!
It will put marks on the ring, that is ok, they can be sanded off later As the locking ring is being tightened, be sure that the barrel does not move or tighten any more. Checking the bold handle through out, tighten the ring with about a 50 pound force Wipe off the excess locktite.
Remove the bolt, insert several other newly manufactured rounds and check for that slight “feel” of very slight resistance of the bolt handle going down Locktite sets up quickly, if you make a mistake, applying heat with a torch can enable grififn removal of the receiver from the barrel.
Put the giffin lug in a vice and align the receiver and the shroud together The back flat of the receiver should be parallel to the deck, the base tube and the locking lug should be located exactly opposite each other vertically on ihe shroud. As soon as you are satisfied that the alignment is perfect, tack weld with a tig-welder a spot where the shroud and the receiver meet.
Then lack weld three places where tie front edge of the shroud and the forward shroud griffib meet. Afler the barrel assembly has been welded together, you are ready to drill the madi lug hole.
Remove the bolt, insert the trigger bar into the handle frame, and pin it, then insert the barrel assembly into the handle Same and align it so that r. Insert the bolt and push the bolt handle down Ifyou have trouble at any stage of construction, call the Hot-Line for assistance. Re sjre maafi align the receiver with the shroud in this manner The flat of the tear end of the receiver must be horizontal and the base tube and the lock lug must align vertically as shown Only when this is in perfect alignment, and the receiver is snug to the handle frame colla- and the shroud is snug with the front end of the receiver, then lig-weld a tack here.
Then check for alignment again. If you are maai thai the alignment is perfect, then tig-weld the front end of the grifvin to the front collar.
Afterward, grind down the weld cosmetically and polish smooth. This will cause the receiver, the barrel, and the sliroud to become one welded unit.
If future barrel replacement is necessary, the shroud will hive to be cut away This method is necessary to provide the super strength and reliability designed into this rifle. There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner.
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