BMS 12N630 PDF

BMS 12N – 8 Ohm, Loudspeaker, Impedance: 8 Ohm, Size: 12″ Neodymium speaker, Rated power: W, 98 dB Sensitivity 1 W/1 m, Weight: kg. BMS:: 12 Inch Drivers:: BMS 12N – 12 inch Neodymium Speaker W 8 Ohms:: BMS 12N – 12 inch Neodymium Speaker W 8 Ohms – 12″ Subwoofer, W, 96dB, Hz. Import in WinISD and Hornresp. Find similar speaker drivers.

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Go to on this page: What I didn’t know at the time of planning, was the the new line of Hypex modules would also be called Fusion. The speaker will come with three options, one with a fully passive crossover, the easy solution, and one with the Hypex PSC2.

Over the years there have been suggestions for a larger classic 3-way with a 12″ bass driver. A serious powerful speaker that can both play with high-end delicacy and throw a party should this be required. I know bns those who ask never build the speaker anyway, because it wasn’t exactly what they had in mindbut maybe some others will.

Based on first hand experience I picked some of the three best and most cost-efficient drivers I know of. And the midrange is very important. I didn’t want to compromise here and wanted a driver that can play whatever we feed it. It’s only up to our skills in crossover design that sets the limits to what this driver can do. The same goes for the SBA tweeter. Over the last year I’ve used this tweeter in a number of applications and for the price of gms EUR it’s unbeatable.

You won’t find a fabric dome that does better. Most recent driver that impressed me in terms of performance and price is the BMS 12N bass driver. This is an unusual driver from a PA perspective. This 12″ bass driver with its 3″ voice 12n603 takes some heavy beating and blends well dynamically with the ScanSpeak midbass from a simple 2nd order filter.

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All drivers for a pair of speaker will set you back some 1, EUR. A bargain to my thinking. If Hypex version is used, the MT section can be driven from wpc. Please also read this: The bass driver is rated at watts and I guess your amp will blow up before the speakers. Above the speakers with their final finish. Fairly high-WAF, isn’t it? Below the raw MDF appearance. If you care more about sound than appearance this is all you need. If not, you may add jacaranda veneer, glossy Mercedes metallic paint or 24 karat gold leaf to your liking.

Click images to view large. Ask Jantzen Audio for options. The crossover follows a simple LR2 topology. Click image to view large. The light yellow parts is my 20 mm Baltic birch overcoat, meant to match the front grill. Obviously you can skip the extra layer of outer panels and front grill and go with the grey coloured sketch to the right, but this is also meant to be a high-WAF construction – and the outer shell does ad significantly to the overall rigidity and weight of the entire construction.


BMS 12N – 12″ Subwoofer

If the outer shell is preferred you can use mm for the side and top panels and mm for rear and front panels. You don’t need to adjust depth to meet target volume. Any change to front panel design and drivers’ placement and you need a new crossover and I can’t help. Please read carefully before asking: Here you see the outer panels.

I made the side panels mm deep and the bottom front panel mm height. Otherwise no dimensions given as this can be made to your liking.

The design is highly inspired by my MUN construction. Go to page to see how it looks. Let’s look at the bass driver and see what level of sensitivity we can expect from the BMS 12N driver. Now, the specs promise rather optimistically 96 dB sensitivity, and maybe we can find some peak in the overall frequency response that would reach 96 dB, but certainly not in the bass region from real-world cabinets and real-world in-room placements. Above we see the calculated response from a 37 cm wide baffle placed in a anechoic room.

If we had the driver on an infinite baffle in an anechoic room we get this:. What we find is some dB sensitivity based on the TS data.

This is more like it. But we do not have the driver on an infinite baffle, nor in an anechoic room, rather the driver facing some boundaries like the floor, the front wall and side walls of our listening room, and the next figure tells a possible scenario:.

Excel sheet including room gain, and from e. Designing a speaker system always includes the choice of likely room placement. If you build the Hypex variant, you have the option of adjusting the bass performance better to your room depending on room dimensions and speaker placement.

With the fully passive version 12630 have to live with the choices made and move around 112n630 speaker for optimal performance.

Luckily this usually goes well, but there are cases where people have to live with some terrible room acoustics and never hear what the speaker can really do. Mails tell me “I have to much bass” or “I have too little bass” and only advise I can give is move the speakers around and hear what happens.

Sorry, new “W” – DSP – or live with it.


BMS 12N630 – 8 Ohm

What happens if we place the speaker up against the front wall? Not too different from out on the floor. You can download the EXCEL file here and try it out yourself and insert your likely distances to nearby surfaces.

1n2630 make room for the Hypex module I had to do a bit of routing on side panels. Do this before assembly! Before gluing the rear panel, add damping material to the compartment behind the midrange enclosure. Much easier than after! I decided to make the panel for the Hypex removable.

Who knows what will come up some day. The Hypex compartment makes a nice place for the mid-tweeter crossover for the passive version. Glue in mm panel for the tweeter. Chamfer middriver hole like seen on image. No need for bass driver. I used 25 mm black MDF for the panel.

Adding felt to all internal panels. Add a piece of 28 x 50 cm acoustilux 126n30 rear panel and up on top and bottom. Stuff the midrange port with a role of 10 x 20 cm acoustilux.

Remember wire holes for mid-tweeter and from the Hypex compartment to bass. Make sure wire holes are air-tight once wires in place. Fold a piece of 25 x 50 cm acoustilux and place at bottom. Fold at piece of 25 x 50 cm acoustilux and place on rear panel above ports. Terminals placed right below ports.

MT crossover section in place in “Hypex” compartment. Cover panel in place. Bass crossover ready for mounting. Use the teflon wire supplied with the kit.

Not the same as used here. Bass crossover in place on rear panel. Base with adjustable feet. Ready for some action! Preparing the Baltic birch cladding. Baltic birch panels in place and first coat of lacquer. And by the way: Found some 5 x 25 mm hex screws with 10 mm head at the local Bauhaus market.

Good for bass mounting. You need 16 of these. Optimising the front grille is a vital part of the design. The frame should impact the frequency response as little as possible. To cut the story short, the side frames were made from 20 x 30 mm HDF and added a slot of 16 mm width over the tweeter range until 2 cm from the top.

The traverse bar really didn’t impact frequency response noticeable, yet I rounded the edges on the three possible sides. The front I wanted sharp. Rounding the three edges of the front top bar didn’t make much impact, if any. But it made me feel better, so it stays. I use six 8 x 8 mm neodym magnets to hold the frame.